IN THE midst of heightened tensions in the West Philippine Sea, the Philippines has taken a bold step by initiating guided tours to the disputed Spratly Islands for the very first time.

This seven-day excursion is known as the Great Kalayaan Expedition, symbolizing freedom, and comes at a cost of over $2,000 (P114,000) per person. These islands, claimed by the Philippines, are located in the northeastern section of the Spratly archipelago, known locally as the Kalayaan Island Group within the West Philippine Sea.

The Spratly Islands consist of over a hundred small islands and reefs, surrounded by fertile fishing grounds and potentially abundant gas and oil reserves. While China, Taiwan, and Vietnam claim these islands in their entirety, Malaysia and the Philippines assert partial claims.

The Great Kalayaan Expedition offers a seven-day journey aboard a dive yacht, but it’s not your typical vacation experience. Most of the islands lack essential infrastructure, including proper ports.

Ken Hupanda, the organizer of this expedition, stated, “The Great Kalayaan Expedition aims to introduce tourism to the expansive West Philippine Sea. While our program isn’t meant to be seen as an aggressive move, it does contribute to reaffirming our claim over the Kalayaan Islands.”

The first group of paying tourists embarked on this journey from June 2 to June 8, comprising media professionals, academics, and water sports enthusiasts like Filipino diver Bretch Garcinez.

Mr. Garcinez explained, “Nationalism plays a significant role in the decision to join this tour despite the cost. This place is special because it’s being watched by every nation.”

The expedition begins from a restricted Philippine naval facility and takes more than 30 hours for the yacht to reach its first destination, the beautiful Lawak Island, which serves as a bird sanctuary.

However, the tour’s main attraction isn’t the picturesque landscapes but the firsthand encounter with China’s maritime presence, including sightings of a China Coast Guard vessel and other Chinese-owned vessels, which a Philippine Navy officer on the yacht identified.

As they docked at the Philippine-controlled Thitu Island, known locally as Pagasa or Hope Island, the yacht’s chief engineer, Wilfredo Baladjay, received an automated message from a Philippine telecom company, but it welcomed him to China, leading to confusion and frustration. “Pagasa is the Philippines; why is it associated with China?” Mr. Baladjay questioned.

On land, the Philippine Navy team stationed on Thitu continually communicated with the nearby Chinese vessel, urging it to leave the vicinity.

Some tourists then took a speed boat to Sandy Cay, a group of three uninhabited sandbars claimed by both China and the Philippines. It lies between Thitu and the Chinese-controlled Subi Reef, guarded by Chinese vessels.

The 20-minute journey was not without anxiety, as tourists feared potential questioning by the Chinese authorities. However, they docked without incident, and Filipinos on board proudly waved the Philippine flag, adding a touch of levity to a region often marked by tension.

Francois-Xavier Bonnet, a geographer and tour participant, emphasized the need for the Philippines to develop tourism in the area, citing examples from other countries like Malaysia, Vietnam, and China who have already ventured into tourism in the Spratly Islands, albeit primarily for their own nationals.

(This article (rewritten version) first appeared on CNA/Jr. Amigo/ai/mnm)